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test build

Jordan's last Grand Prix winner?
Building Silverline's EJ13
with Chris Clay

In the attempt to finish this model, an old Crosby, Stills & Nash song came to mind (now that's showing my age). The lyrics went something like this, 'and it appears to be a long time coming, it appears to be a long time gone…' Well that just about describes my feelings about the progress towards completion of what in hindsight will probably be the last ever Jordan GP winner. Bare with me if you will and I will explain.
At the time of writing, some thirteen months has elapsed before this model was anywhere near to being finished. Initially I held back on starting the kit as I also had the Z-model EJ12 on back order and it seemed a good idea at the time to build these together as they were much the same only differing in final application and detailing.
Well, sometimes plans just do not work out the way one would wish them to. Lets be clear here though, it is no fault of the manufacturer except in only perhaps one area. It is really the way I wanted to complete both models to an acceptable level.
After a few e-mails to and fro with the esteemed editor, he suggested that it may not be a good idea to include the Z-model offering as it would be unlikely to be available after a very short space of time and would only lead to problems later if further examples were required, which is indeed exactly the case now! So I pressed on with the Silverline EJ13 (TMS006) on its own.
The castings are very similar to those in a Tameo kit, i.e. well presented with negligible flash. When assembling the main body parts (pt #s 11 & 13), the fit was so good only the smallest amount of filler was used to hide the joint. I then glued the front wing support (pt #13) after I had made sure that it was bent to correct shape and lined up with the front wing (pt #68). Curiously, the front wing has the end plates produced integrally; this does not really matter but would have made radiusing the leading edges of the wing and end plates much easier.

I assembled the cooling stacks (pt #s 5 & 10) and the aero features on the rear of the upper body (pt #s 14/15 18/19) but left out the small wings at this stage. The exhausts (pt #s 6 & 9) were also ignored at this stage. The front wing was now assembled as per instructions, however I chose to fully assemble the rear wing including the lower aerofoil support (pt #38). In hindsight, not a good idea.
On the front wing support, close to the nose, there are small Gurney flaps on each side which were not in the kit, so I filed a small piece of photo-etch and glued it in place. Look closely at the photo on the bottom right hand corner on the instruction sheet, they can clearly be seen. All parts were now primed with Halford's white primer and then set aside to harden for a few days.
At this juncture, I had to find a suitable Yellow. Yes I know Jordan's are yellow well mostly in the last few years. But which and what shade? As usual I try to do as much research as is feasible. The last time I came in close contact with a Jordan was at the 10th anniversary celebrations at Donington Park in September 2000, and yes there were a few yellow cars. It seemed to me at that time those that were yellow were all the same shade except one, that being the EJ10. It was/is a very weird yellow, best described as green in hue and fluorescent.
Now fluorescents being fluorescents, they do not show up well on film and this shade is no exception, they do however differ significantly in tone and hue when compared to 'conventional' colours. So the recommended colour of Tamiya Fluorescent Yellow MS10 I believe is wide of the mark for this application. That being the case what colour should I use?
Well you name it, I bought it and none seemed anything like close enough when compared to the multitude of photographs I had accrued.
Quite by chance when trying to find the elusive BRP Green (try Xtracrylix XA1007 RAF Sky BS210) I happened upon Xtracolour X108 FS13655 Blue Angels Yellow enamel. This was the very best yellow match when comparing to photographs. I duly gave all parts three coats on top of Halford's white primer. Now whether it was the primer, I am not sure but after three weeks the paint had still not cured sufficiently. It's just about this time I started to lose interest for the first time.
During the winter of '04, a trip to Toronto for family reasons beckoned. Whilst out that way I always visit as many models shops as I can find. There is always something I can find useful that never seems to be readily available in the UK.
Apart from tools that I have a fascination with, I found in one store ModelMaster Acrylic Blue Angels Yellow, in fact I emptied the shop of it. When I returned home the enamel was still tacky to the touch, so I stripped it and eventually applied the acrylic version. Now this stuff is just great providing the correct thinner is used (I also purchased sufficient ModelMaster recommended thinner).
After a week I started to apply the decals including the black underbelly. For this I made a template from card then transfered it to a solid black decal sheet and then applied the cut out decal to the model. I cut small rectangular shapes that go on the underside of the front wing support using BBR carbon fibre (BBD015). After allowing a few days to harden off, I lacquered the main body with my customary Gipgloss. The end result was more than acceptable.
I then started the protracted process of decaling all the wings and suspension again with BBR carbon fibre decal. This is not as easy as it sounds and I came to understand quickly why the term 'Braille Scale' is applied.
Each carbon component at close scrutiny has a specific direction. I reasoned that if I have gone this far I might just as well make sure the carbon pattern follows the correct directional path.
So at last I could now complete the final assembly of the model……well………no.
Everything was plodding along quite nicely; this is until I came to install the barge-boards. These two components are single casting, and very well executed. If the kit had been a 'super kit' there would have been huge scope here, but it is not necessary as very little can be seen, largely hidden as it is.

The method of assembly is to thread the front suspension assembly through the front part of each barge-board. At the rear of the lower suspension, is a small locating tab that must be bent in position and the fitted into a corresponding hole pre-drilled at the rear of the barge-board. Well this where everything came crashing down around me. This rearmost part of the barge-board is a little delicate, and its location somewhat fiddly. As I tried to mate all locations together, the rear part of the barge-board separated from the main casting. To say I was not best pleased was an understatement. Pretty well everything was finished at this point and no amount of various types of superglue could persuade the two parts to stay fixed together. I can only assume that there had been a flaw in this component that I had not picked up during the paint prep.
There was little point in asking for a replacement part, as the suspension was all glued in place and disassembly to replace the damaged component would have only compounded the problem.
The other side was fine and went together with no problems. It was at this moment I lost interest in this model again and so it sat forlorn for the next twelve months or so whilst I attended to other projects. Eventually, about a month ago (at the time of writing), I thought it was about time I put the EJ13 to bed so to speak. I picked up the broken pieces, opened a new bottle of Zap-a-gap and low and behold the separated parts just fell together and have stayed joined ever since. It just goes to show that if it's all going wrong, it's best to just calmly put the model away and come back to it later.
The final parts that required finishing were the mirrors. The kit parts are not too precise. The mirrored surface itself is set back into the mirror housing, I suspect this is to reduce reflections and glare on the actual car. I replicated this with .005" plasticard on the upper and lower surfaces. I had tried using thin pieces of photo-etch initially, but this proved rather unsuccessful as I could not keep the pieces flat during cutting.
All the black that can be seen, has BBR (BBD015), carbon decals applied. One heck of a time consuming task but well worth the effort in the long run.
Well better late than never, the model is completed, and in general I am quite happy with the result. It is far from perfect, not one that I would enter into a show as it does not quite stand up to close scrutiny. Considering I very nearly did not finish it at all, perseverance paid off. A satisfactory conclusion then?