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Nineteen Seventy was the year that I really got interested
in F1. The grid at that time and for many years after had
a huge variety of shapes and sizes; few were what could be
described as 'aesthetically' pleasing. Functionality over
design? Perhaps.
Somehow, the 312B always looked like a racing car right from the word go. Had
it not been for a number of reliability issues and just bad luck Ferrari would
have been World Champion constructors and Ickx the champion driver.
And so to the kit. If the component count is correct, there are 192, yes that's
right, one hundred and ninety two. Which ever way it is looked at, a huge amount
for a model kit of this scale and it's NOT a 'super' kit. There's even a twelve
page booklet of instructions, diagrams, and photographs mostly in full colour.
I recall that SMTS produced a 312B many years ago, and up until TMK344, a very
good kit it is. Then what happens, Tameo raises the goal posts yet again? Well
I never did get around to building the SMTS version, but this was a different
matter entirely.
Page two (page one is just a title page) consists of the colour palette and photo-etch
layout, eighty-three in all. Page three is where it starts to get interesting
(doesn't it always?).
Construction commences with part number one, funnily enough. This is a photo-etch
part that is used as the rollbar support, and then the rollbar as well as top
pick up points for the rear suspension. Tameo recommend that the main body/chassis
is now painted Tamiya Italian Red. Not sure about that, I used my usual Ford
Radiant red.
Stages 4-6 are assembly of the front suspension. In fact at this stage I treated
all the suspension components, including the rear, with the Alclad II Chrome
(ALC007) and allowed it to cure for a few days before assembly. Here is something
new to me, the left and right hubs are secured with the tiniest pins imaginable,
be very careful, I had one spare from a total requirement of eight.
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The front track rods are
constructed at stage 6. Again, something new, four components
for EACH side. Be very careful here. Components 16/17 and
20/21 are handed. If assembled incorrectly the detail will
not be seen.
The next six steps are quite straight forward and entail just the interior bits
and is a matter of following each step. A revelation here is the dash. Three
little gauges, three fascias, and three miniature gauge brackets. Seeing is believing.
This is where the carpet monster surfaced. I lost one of the brackets and to
date still have not found it. To be honest they can't really be seen (I have
tried to convince myself). At this stage of assembly, I drilled the rear of each
gauge and added 0.19mm wire (DM1101) for wiring harness which can be seen though
the windscreen.
The seat has a three part decal. I was not sure that it was correct, the colour
didn't seem right, but after some research, the decals are indeed spot on. I
painted the seat a dark(ish) red in readiness for the decals. I did not use the
supplied seat belts. They are out of scale for this year (1970s). I used one
of my dwindling supply of SRC harnesses. Before I use them I always heat the
photo-etch over a flame until red. I then quench in cold water. This helps a
huge amount with the bending process. I then bend and trim to shape, paint and
glue to the seat. That's the interior completed, easy eh?
The next major assembly commences at stage 14, the engine and transmission. All
components were painted as per instructions, I used Halford's Aluminium as I
knew that a great deal of handling would occur and I also know from past experience
that this paint does stand up to some abuse. As an alternative, I see no reason
why Alclad Aluminium (ALC001) could not be used. If I built another I would take
this route as it would also be possible to airbrush various shades to show a
bit of weathering/originality.
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At
this point I decided to add the spark plug wiring. Component
61 is the distributor. I drilled thirteen 0.3mm holes for
the plug and king leads. The same size drill was used on
each cylinder head. I then used 0.19mm black wire (DM1101)
for said leads. I chickened out simulating the injection
leads, my eyes are not what they
were!
Stages 15- 18 are all quite easy and self explanatory, the drive shafts are very
nice. However take care with parts 90-91, the rear suspension mounts. A dry run
is suggested before painting and assembly. I didn't and had to fettle component
90 to fit better and then repaint.
And so to stage 19, not difficult. A six component assembly of the rear control
arms on each side, wow!
Further progress is as instructions again and easy to follow and no problem.
Front and rear wing construction starts at stage 25. Here I deviated. The method
of assembly is to fold over the wing elements, this is OK if one is not too particular,
but it does leave a rather nasty straight edge not quite hidden underneath.
I applied just enough Cynoacrylate (ZAP025) to hold the fold together. I gave
the components two days to harden off. I then filled each wing in turn until
a better shape formed. When satisfied, I applied filler, just enough to hide
the straight edge, leaving to harden overnight. For this process where more than
a little filler is required, I have always used Plastic Padding, but we all have
our own favourites.
Once all the wings where fettled and assembled I went through the process of
painting them white as I had no intention of using the supplied white decals.
Inevitably Halford's products, primer and Appliance White were used. When the
white had been allowed to cure for a few days , I masked off each wing as required
and the applied the red.
This is quite easy, but component 32 for the rear wing is really small. I initially
assembled all the rear wing elements and then went through the paint process.
The paint flooded the tiny gap between the wing elements and quite frankly looked
awful. So out with the paint stripper (acetone - but be VERY careful and its
not so readily available any more). This of course removed all the filler as
well. So back to square one with this bit!
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The best solution
was to leave out 32 at the build process and assemble it
later when every element had been painted. Not as easy
as it sounds and incredibly
irritating, got there in the end though.
At stage 26, the oil filler tank must be assembled. A bit of folding, a bit of
sticky and a bit of paint, but it is a PAIN to get at between the rollover bar
and the support as is component 162 at stage 28.
Final assembly did not present any problems. The decaling I did at various stages
of assembly. I did not leave it to the very final stage (34?). The reason being
is that I fully intended to lacquer all the body parts after decals had been
left to cure off as I now usually do. I am still using Gipgloss but do intend
to try something else in the near future.
I chose to decal mine as the Ickx car from 1970 Italian GP (ret.). It had to
be the Ickx car, the windscreen alone made me choose it, but as mentioned previously,
he could have (some say should have) become champion in 1970.
The windscreens provided are already tinted blue, so no problem there then. I
also noticed from one of the photographs that there is a small deflector on the
uppermost central aspect of the windscreen, this was added from a little of the
flat section of off-cut and attached with Microscale Metal Foil Adhesive (MSMFA).
So what are the outstanding points? Well it is truly a stunning model when completed;
the tyres are awesome. All that they require is the removal of the radial mould
line. The suspension elements break new ground for a kit of this size and cost
(well it does for me). Downside? Well at £54, it isn't cheap. Then again,
when compared with what one gets for the money compared to some other kits, it's
something of a bargain
Well that really is all there is to it, not quite a kit for the beginner, but
most certainly one to aspire to. All I need now is a decent Lotus 72 to put alongside
it please Mr Tameo.
This feature was received before Tameo announced their 72 kit. TMKWCT70 is now
available - Ed.
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