An
excellent kit
Reader Colin Nash recently built the Tameo model pictured above -
ref TMK292 (and in colour on what's new page
1) and offers his comments......
"I finished this some
weeks ago and thought someone else might offer FSW a photo - but as
they haven't! I am not sure about the colour, although looking at
the photos one can determine at least a dozen shades of yellow. (Ford
Signal was the only one I could find with that feel of citrus). You'll
also maybe notice one of the turned aerials - which I lost - has been
replaced with wire. Here are the notes I made during construction.........
Drill 0.75 on top
of airbox - not 1.00mm - 1mm would split the top of the airbox....
The final assembly
diagram is ambiguous on two counts........(1) It shows blue paint
number adjacent to rear upper wing elements, which should of course
not be painted blue. You obviously need them yellow to show up the
word Telefonica when the decals are applied. (2) It shows the small
fairing on the barge boards to be black - they are not.
The decal placement
diagram contains a mistake. It shows the Fondmetal decals on the front
suspension as being white for Mazzacane (car 21), when photos of the
car show that his car should have red ones.
Now for some construction
hints - I should strongly advise constructing parts 65 & 66 and sticking
them to the nose of the car before painting. A sharp blade easily
removes paint from the tiny wire extension on the top - that's easier
to do than describe!
I had no trouble
with the delicate 3 point barge board supports. I stuck 77 & 78 to
the base plate before painting and 75 & 79 to the rear of the barge
boards - again before painting. Check the angle of 75 & 79 to the
rear of the barge boards - again before painting. Check the angle
of 75 & 79 during your dry run. Remove paint from the ends of the
supports where they join the body when final assembly takes place.
Colin Nash, Helmdon, England
Our thanks to
Colin for passing on his findings. We welcome similar comments and
photos from fellow readers and will always try to find the space to
publish them.
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More
1:24th......
I build exclusively
in 1:24th scale, and have purchased decals and trans-kits in the past,
which I would like to give build reports on. Big TK14 -ESSO Toyota
Celica ST205: Excellent decals, wheels very good, roll cage undersized,
large ancillaries fair and small size ancillaries crude. Instructions
reasonable but decal placement guide useless with no colour detail
guide. Meri Martini Escort Cosworth: - Excellent decals and good wheels
with colour decal placement guide. CB Com Bastos Escort: - good all
round but decals not opaque enough and missing some small items.
By the way, regarding
the 1:43rd pre-painted D+W Escort group 2 kit reviewed some time ago,
my sources say that these cars were painted Ford 'Midnight' blue,
a very dark shade which is often mistaken for black, when viewed in
some light. This was the colour used on all of the D+W sponsored Fords
of this era. 'Mampe' cars were black. History has not done justice
to these Escorts, which during the late seventies were to be seen
racing in the European Touring Car Championship - being the scourge
of the 3.5 Litre 24 valve BMW 635 CSi - and winning the 1980 Nurburgring
6 hours outright, if memory serves me correctly. In fact, the various
Gr.2 Zakspeed Escorts were always the best of the class. The BDA was
quite an engine.
Now - can I again
bring to your attention the criminal lack of a good book or books
on the history of touring car racing, which has had regular involvement
by drivers such as Hans Stuck, Bernd Schneider, Jackie Stewart, Jacques
Laffitte and Klaus Ludwig to name but a few. I get annoyed and frustrated
by yet another book on what Mika Hakkinen has for breakfast, or whether
Michael Schumacher would have been better than Aryton Senna. What
difference does it make? Let's be brutally honest here, since the
demise of the turbo era, F1 ranks alongside cricket and lawn bowls
as the best cure for insomnia, most of the time. And what is the most
successful form of motorsport on your screens today? - the BTCC, which
would not exist except for the exploits of the Andy Rouses, Robb Gravetts
and Gordon Spices of yesteryear. Books on their exploits? Not a single
one. And not forgetting of course the Ford Capris, Rover Vitesses,
Lotus Cortinas etc. Yet little or nothing exists in print.
While I am ranting
on, can you twist the arms of all those kit manufacturers that you
deal with to consider resin kits of the classics, in 1/24th. Cars
such as those above, plus the E30 BMW M3, Volvo 240T, Ford Escort
MK 1, BMW 528i and many others never before available. My collection
is exclusively in this scale, which is an increasingly popular size.
John Culley, Dublin, Ireland
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Tyre
decalling again!!
I read with interest
Bruce Allen's comments on tyre decalling and, yes! I have had a
similar problem. Not only have tyres developed a "sticky"
coating, but on occasion the decals have blistered and ultimately
disintegrated. However, I have discovered the following procedure
does help -
1) Soak the tyres overnight in a concentrated solution of washing
up liquid and cold water.
2) Rinse and dry the tyres and put them on the wheel rims.
3) Coat the whole of the tyre wall with satin acrylic varnish and
allow to dry completely.
4) Apply the decal and blot with a soft cloth to remove excess water,
then apply decal softener and LEAVE!
5) After about half an hour warm the decal with a hair dryer and
the decal will conform to the side wall perfectly.
6) Finally, coat the tyre wall completely in clear flat acrylic
varnish and leave to dry.
I believe that
soaking the tyre in the washing-up liquid solution removes some
of the oils in the tyre which may react with decal softeners and
the acrylic satin varnish, when dry, provides a good inert surface
to apply the decals to.
Now a related problem
- some of my older models have tyres which leak a clear oily substance.
This is noticeable on the glass shelves of my cabinet, where the
tyres affected are standing in a small pool of this substance. Does
anyone know what this is? Does anyone have a cure? If only all tyres
were resin, like Marsh Models, problems like this would not occur!
D.G. Scott, Grimsby, England
We welcome more input about tyres and their related problems
from other readers - particularly with reference to solutions you
may have discovered.
Roller
marks!
With reference
to Mike Broadbent's letter concerning the use of Dulux paints for
the Jaguar XJR14, we did try this method but could not get rid of
the roller marks. Seriously, this may be a good idea. I am sure
that it would probably airbrush when thinned and, once decalled,
should lacquer OK.
John Simons, Marsh Models, UK
Bugatti
aeroplane
Further to the news
of the forthcoming Bugatti 100 airplane model, interested readers
should know that Bugatti historian Jaap Horst has been publishing,
for some time, the delightful magazine Pegasus, devoted to that
airplane and related matters (e.g. Breguet airplanes, models of
the 100, etc.)
He charges US$10
for membership to the Bugatti Aircraft Association, of which Pegasus
is the newsletter; the $10 pays for the subscription of two issues
per annum. For more info, please contact Jaap at J.J.Horst@bigfoot.com
or visit the site - http:/ /www.bugatti. vintageweb.net /baa

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Snail mail address is Jaap Horst, Abstederschans 65, 3432EH, Nieuwegein,
the Netherlands
Re, Wayne Moyer's
letter - I believe the real Bugatti 100 is in an aircraft museum
in Ohio. Intriguingly, the latest issue of Pegasus reports that
the owner of the plane offered it to the French Musee de l'Air in
the 1960s, but they turned down the offer due to space shortages.
Ken Kessler, England
Harm?
No!
Being an admirer
and purchaser of Tameo kits I read with interest Harm Kruitof's article
in the 05-2001 issue of FSW. Whilst I can understand his comments
about the minute detail supplied particularly with the Superkits I
find this adds to the challenge and that returning to a "standard"
kit can sometimes be disappointing. I have recently used the local
watch/clock repairer to order tweezers, at £12.00 a time that seem
able to pick up dust! (his hobby is restoring Mini's for exhibition
- now there is a labour of love).
Again I have mixed
feelings about pre-painted kits. The Tameo Ferrari 312T kit took me
six attempts to achieve the required results on the lift-off bodywork
(at masking I am not good but can recommend the use of self-adhesive
book covering film as it's adhesive qualities are very kind to fresh
paintwork), but again this is part of the challenge. I have yet to
purchase a kit that does not require some fitting of the bodywork
(including Top Queens Mercedes W153) and if the parts had been pre-painted
touching-up and matching the paint would have been a near impossible
task. I do not believe that the majority of model makers would wish
for "Lego" type kits that produce models of little more interest than
the freely available die-cast ones.
Finally do not despair
about wearing optical assistance. I have worn spectacles from the
age of six and as I am about to add the fifty-eighth notch to my belt
and still feel well able to continue at 1:43rd scale with the assistance
of good lighting, a bench-mounted illuminated magnifying glass and
no interruptions from the telephone, mobile or otherwise!
Peter Dring, Ripley, England
Cobra
427 wanted
May I wish GPM good
luck in getting the new web site up and running. You do a great job.
Please send a request to John Simons for a 427 Cobra roadster kit
to complete the main Cobra story.
Eddie Alvarez, email
John says that the 427 is scheduled 'some time' in the future.

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